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A trip to learn about Abashiri Prison and the Ainu people, which also appear in a popular manga.

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Spots that trace the memories of Hokkaido's development

When it comes to sightseeing in Abashiri, many people immediately think of Abashiri Prison, a spot that has garnered even more attention as the setting for the hugely popular manga "Golden Kamuy," which has also been adapted into anime and live-action films, as well as the culture of the Ainu, a northern ethnic group.

If you want to see, feel, and experience the history and heritage of Hokkaido, head to the "Abashiri Prison Museum," a building constructed during the Meiji period that has been relocated and designated as an important cultural property, and the "Northern Peoples Museum," where you can experience the folk culture that thrives in Hokkaido!

By learning about the history etched into this place and the culture that thrives in Hokkaido, you can see the profound charm unique to this land.

Now, let's head to Abashiri Prison, a historical site in Hokkaido.

Upon arriving at the "Abashiri Prison Museum," located on the slopes of Tentozan Tento in the Abashiri Quasi-National Park area, the first thing you'll see is the "Kagamibashi Bridge."

The name "Kagamibashi"
"Look at yourself in the flowing, clear stream like a mirror, straighten your collar, and cross to the shore of your destination."
That is the sentiment behind it.
Across the waterfront, which is modeled after the Abashiri River, the "main gate" of the prison can be seen.
I've already started to sense an atmosphere that's different from everyday life.
You can feel the dignity of this prison, once feared as "the prison at the edge of the world."
You'll be overwhelmed by the imposing red brick "main gate"!

 

 

Incidentally, on the way to Abashiri Prison Museum, you can see the Abashiri River, which flows alongside National Route 39, and beyond it, you can see the red brick building of the"active"Abashiri Prison, which resembles the main gate.

A currently operating prison stands quietly amidst nature...
It somehow feels even more somber.
Suddenly, I glanced at the Abashiri River flowing in front of the prison,
I spotted a Nipopo on the fence by the river!
Nipopo is a traditional wood carving folk craft from Abashiri City.
It's a charm that brings good fortune.

Now, let's resume our tour of Abashiri Prison.

By the way, for this trip to "Abashiri Prison Museum," I took a bus from Memanbetsu Airport to Abashiri Bus Terminal, then took the 'Doko Bus' from bus 811 (Abashiri Bus Terminal) to bus number 903 (Museum Abashiri Prison).

"Dokobus" allows you to book a ride whenever you want using the LINE app or an automated phone system, and they'll pick you up at the bus stop at the earliest possible time. There's also a touch panel at Abashiri Bus Terminal where you can book Dokobus, and I used that to make my reservation this time!

Since it's by reservation only, you're guaranteed a seat even if you're sharing a ride, and it's also a great option for when you don't have a car.

Furthermore, preparations are underway to make the Dokobus service available from Memanbetsu Airport from October​ ​1,​ ​2026, which will make it even more convenient! (Application is currently being submitted to the Hokkaido Transport Bureau)

Experience the architectural beauty of the Meiji era.

Abashiri Prison is a museum that relocated and restored buildings that were actually used in Abashiri Prison from the Meiji to Showa eras.

Within this facility are buildings constructed during the Meiji era that have been designated as "Important Cultural Properties" by the Japanese government. Upon entering through the "main gate," you will immediately come face to face with the first Important Cultural Property, the "government building."

A color scheme of light blue and gray, semi-circular arched dormer windows,
The interior walls, finished in a plaster-like style, and other meticulous details truly embody the architectural beauty of the Meiji era.

The building was the main building for the prison administration at the time, and visitors can appreciate its architectural beauty while touring it. Inside, you'll find the prison warden's office, the room of the highest-ranking official, and an area where you can learn about the history of the prison through exhibits.

The desks and chairs have an antique feel reminiscent of the Meiji era.
The interior of the building is also stylish, with light blue decorations and frames.
You can also learn more about the building's features and highlights.

I was overwhelmed bythe five-winged radialstructure.

Leaving the building and proceeding further inside, you finally reach the area where the "cell blocks" where the prisoners spent their time are located.

Abashiri Prison is composed of five cell blocks that radiate outwards from the central guard post, known as the "five-winged radial cell block."

This "prison and central guard post" is also a wooden building from the Meiji era that has been designated an important cultural property.

From the central guard post, you can see all five prison cells at a glance.
The entrance to each cell block.
I feel a strange sensation as I gaze upon the extraordinary scenery stretching far into the distance.
Currently, seismic reinforcement work is being carried out.
"Block 1" and "Block 3" are under construction.
I feel that this facility will continue to thrive, both now and in the future, thanks to repeated preservation efforts.
We proceeded, entering the space where the inmates had lived.
Iron bars, heavy doors, silence...a space that takes your breath away.
Doors, windows, grilles, ceilings, even their height, thickness, and angles.
I was also impressed by how everything was designed with such precision.
Look! There's someone who's escaped from prison on the ceiling...!?
You can also enter a 1.5-tsubo (approximately 5 square meters) solitary confinement cell.
A space entirely constructed of wood with high ceilings. It must be extremely cold in the middle of winter...

Even the outdoor area offers sights thatgive you a unique "prison" feel.

First, there's the "Brick Solitary Confinement Cell," a double-doored building designated as a"Registered Tangible Cultural Property," standing in a corner of the outdoors and standing out from the indoor solitary confinement cells we've just seen.

Apparently, they were locking them up as a severe punishment for breaking the rules...
When I cautiously peeked inside, I found it to be a dark, cold space with no windows.
If I were trapped here, I think I'd lose all sense of time.

 

 

Near the gate entrances and various facilities, there are guard posts called "shosha," which are also registered as tangible cultural properties. Within the Abashiri Prison complex, there are many structures that were actually used until around 1985.

This is a guard post near the back gate of Abashiri Prison.
You can also go inside the charming guardhouse.

This is the "bathhouse" facility, which was said to be the most enjoyable part of life for the inmates. Bathing, which was carried out efficiently under supervision for a total of 15 minutes, with each step from undressing to bathing, washing, rinsing off, and getting dressed taking 3 minutes. In the summer, it was once every 5 days, and at other times, once every 7 days.

The outdoor "bathhouse" is also a wooden building, which gives it a charming, traditional feel.
The exhibit, which recreates a bathing scene, also features inmates with tattoos on their bodies.
You can sense the history of how this place used to imprison serious criminals, political prisoners, and political prisoners from all over the country.

The "Kyōkaidō" (lecture hall), where inmates received spiritual, ethical, and religious guidance, is also a designated Important Cultural Property, boasting a beautiful blend of Japanese and Western architectural styles. (Note: Currently, the Kyōkaidō is undergoing seismic reinforcement work, and tours of the building are suspended. Tours are scheduled to resume around August 2027.)

In contrast to its Japanese-style exterior, the interior boasts a beautiful Western design.

And this is the prison staff quarters, commonly known as the "guard barracks," a building that recreates the living quarters of prison guards.

It's a row of three single-story wooden houses, and you can faintly smell the scent of wood as you enter the building.

Kitchens with hearths, hearths, and paulownia wood chests
The exhibits that meticulously recreate the daily lives of prison guards' families during the Taisho and Showa periods are also enjoyable to see.
This place isn't just an exhibition space; you can also go inside and use it as a rest area.

Experience "prison food" from the perspective of an inmate.

At the "Prison Cafeteria" located within the facility, you can experience prison food that replicates the meals currently served at Abashiri Prison.

The prison food menu includes this grilled fish (saury or mackerel) set meal.
I'm experiencing prison food for the first time. I'm savoring every bite.

The dining hall is a pleasant space with light streaming in from the high ceiling, and in addition to prison food, they also have a menu that includes noodles, rice bowls, and more!

Check out souvenirs and collaboration goods to commemorate your "release" from prison.

There are two places where you can buy souvenirs from Abashiri Prison: the "Museum Shop" inside the building and the "Souvenir Hall" near the exit. They sell unique Abashiri Prison souvenirs as well as merchandise from the TV anime "Golden Kamuy".

This time, we'll introduce some of the items available at the "Museum Shop"!

A clear file folder that you can use every day!? A gift to celebrate someone's release from prison.
The "Prison Original Cookies," available exclusively at the museum shop,
Each individually wrapped treat features an illustration of Ezo animals, making it a perfect souvenir for colleagues or friends.
And here are some goods from the TV anime "Golden Kamuy".
Personally, I'm curious about "Osoma (miso) that you can eat."
We also have other items, such as drawstring bags and keychains featuring character costume designs.
Please be sure to check it out when you visit!

 

 

After enjoying the history and architecture at the Abashiri Prison Museum, we wanted to learn more about the Ainu people! So, where did we head next...?

The Northern Peoples Museum: A place to learn about the Ainu way of life and spirit.

Located near the summit of Tentozan, the same mountain as the Abashiri Prison Museum, Hokkaido Museum of Northern Indigenous Peoples is the only museum in Japan that specializes in showcasing the culture of northern peoples.

Beyond the Okhotsk culture, you can visually learn about the cultures of various northern peoples, from Greenland in the east to Northern Europe, including the Ainu, Inuit, and Uilta, through over 900 valuable artifacts.

The entire building is designed to resemble a waterfowl spreading its wings.
The cone shape of the entrance is inspired by a tent.

Learn about the unique culture and lifestyle of the north.

To survive in the harsh northern environment, a unique culture adapted to the cold has been developed.

Upon entering the permanent exhibition hall, the first area you see is filled with the clothing of the northern peoples.
They not only protect you from the cold of the north, but their unique colors and shapes are also refreshing.
Its colorful color scheme and unique patterns are also distinctive features.
A necklace, a type of ornament worn by the Ainu people of Hokkaido.
This item is worn by women when they are dressed formally.
It is said that these items are sometimes passed down from mother to daughter and buried as burial goods.
Apparently, it was originally obtained through trade with another region.
A garment called attushi (bark clothing).
The bark of the elm tree, which grows wild in Hokkaido, is stripped and spun into thread, then woven, sewn, and embroidered.
I was thrilled to see the "Ainu clothing" I had always imagined in person!
These boots are actually made from salmon skin!
I was amazed by the power to transform everyday objects into all sorts of forms.
This is a "two-pronged harpoon,"
A harpoon used for hunting marine mammals.
Seals, whales, etc.
The thing used to catch it, the overall size is...
It's so big!
How exactly do you handle it?
This bifurcated harpoon is actually only preserved in two locations in the world.
Apparently, one such place is this "Museum of Northern Peoples."
This is precious.
Of course, traps for hunting land animals,
Bows and arrows were also essential items for the Ainu people of Hokkaido.
So this is how you hunt down Hokkaido deer, brown bears, and other animals!
Among the Ainu,
They revere brown bears as gods (kamuy),
A ceremony called "bear sending" was observed, in which the soul was sent back to heaven.
In traditional Ainu rituals, this is called "hoshubashi"
Ritual implements used to offer sake to kamuy (spirits) and ancestors are also used.
For the Ainu, knives like this are
An essential item used for mountain work and cooking.
The pattern, engraved with Ainu motifs, is stylish.
The spoons used for cooking and eating also have patterns carved into them.
It's not just about convenience; you can also sense the spirit of putting thought and care into each and every item.

These traditions and arts are
It seems that this craft has been passed down and continues to evolve, fused with modern materials and technologies.

 

 

There is still so much more about Ainu culture, including their clothing, food, and shelter, that we can't fully describe here, so please come and experience it for yourself at the museum exhibits.

The Northern Peoples Museum also sells fashion items incorporating traditional Ainu patterns, so be sure to check them out when you visit!

■ Shooting cooperation

■Recommended Spots to Visit Together

■ Official website for the TV anime "Golden Kamuy"

https://kamuy-anime.com/

■ Copyright Notice

©Satoru Noda/Shueisha/Golden Kamuy Production Committee

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